Is Koh Chang Thailand’s Most Underrated Island Paradise?

🎬 Introduction

When you think of Thailand’s islands, your mind probably jumps to the usual suspects: Phuket, Koh Samui, maybe even Koh Phi Phi. But just a few hours east of Bangkok lies a different kind of island paradise. One that’s wild, mountainous, and surprisingly off the mainstream tourist radar.

Welcome to Koh Chang, the “Island of Elephants,” and what turned out to be a fascinating three-day adventure that left us with mixed feelings. We had planned to visit all three of the bigger islands in Trat Province and you can see a comparison of those in this blog post.

Getting to Koh Chang

We arrived at Koh Chang from the tranquil island of Koh Mak via the Boonsiri Ferry service, and the contrast was immediate. As Koh Chang’s jungle-clad peaks emerged through the morning haze, we realised this wasn’t going to be another sleepy island escape. This was Thailand’s second-largest island, and it showed.

The ferry port at Bang Boa (extreme south of Koh Chang) is quite the introduction: it’s a 700m-long quay lined with shops, restaurants, SIM card vendors, fresh seafood stalls, and enough tourist tat to keep you browsing for hours. It’s bustling, chaotic, and energetic in a way that sets the tone for the island itself.

Pro tip: Boonsiri Ferries runs regular services from the mainland and between islands, and they can arrange onward transport to your hotel. Speaking of which, be prepared for the journey once you’re on the island. The roads are incredibly hilly and windy—imagine a rollercoaster but with actual traffic. We were grateful we’d chosen not to rent a moped, even though it’s a popular option for exploring the island.

Getting there from Bangkok: The journey takes approximately 5-6 hours, including the ferry crossing. You can arrange a direct transfer, take a bus to Trat Province and then the ferry, or drive yourself. The main ferry terminal on the mainland is at Ao Thammachat and the ferry terminal on Koh Chang is in the north, about a 10-minute drive to White Sand Beach.

Getting there by plane: You can’t! BUT… you can fly to Trat Airport (TDX), which is a short taxi ride to the Koh Chang Ferry terminal. The ferry will wait for the last flight from BKK to arrive. Only Bangkok Airways currently fly (2 or 3 flights a day depending on the season).

Where We Stayed: KC Grande Resort & Spa Review

We checked into the KC Grande Resort & Spa on White Sand Beach (Had Sai Khao), drawn by its reputation as a 5-star property with all the amenities. The resort certainly delivers on scale: there are multiple pools, a beach restaurant, a main restaurant, a beach bar, and fitness facilities. The rooms face the pool area, which cascades toward the beach.

However, and this is important, the KC Grande turned out to be a significant disappointment for us, especially given its 5-star rating.

The Good:

• Prime location on White Sand Beach
• Multiple dining and pool options
• Decent-sized rooms with pool views
• Beach access

The Disappointing Reality:

Breakfast: Our final morning exemplified the problems. Despite the buffet having “just freshly made” items, everything was bland and underwhelming. Bland eggs (cold and rubbery), bland yoghurt, bland fruit, dry and rubbery croissants, uninspired coffee. For a supposed 5-star resort, this was shocking.

The “Resort” Problem: The KC Grande is what we’ve come to call “too resorty.” It’s large, impersonal, and tries to be everything to everyone while not excelling at anything in particular. For example, we had written to them several times in advance asking how best to get to Trat Airport. Their responses were unintelligible and unhelpful.

After staying at smaller, more intimate properties on Koh Mak and Koh Kood, the mega-resort experience felt hollow.

Beware the deposit: At check in they demanded a deposit held on a credit card (2,000 baht). On check out, they said this might take 2 weeks to be released! This is outrageous and should be instant!

Highway Robbery on Transfers: Perhaps most egregious was the pricing. When we did finally arrive and try and get better details on transfers. the hotel quoted us nearly 2,000 baht per person for transfer to the ferry terminal and the 20-minute transfer to Trat / TDX airport.

Finally, we arranged our own transport for 650 baht per person, which was less than a third of their price. When a hotel tries to charge three times the market rate for basic services, it speaks volumes about their approach to guests.

Our Verdict: The KC Grande didn’t match our rhythm or expectations. For a 5-star property, it fell considerably short on food quality, value for money, and the personal touch that makes a resort memorable.

Above is our unique method of scoring hotels that include:

• Accommodation
• Property & Grounds
• Food & Beverage
• Wellness & Service
• Value & Inclusions

Based on our 3-night stay, the KC Grande was lacking on many fronts. There are better options to stay in Koh Chang.

Where We’d Stay Instead

After exploring the island, we have much clearer recommendations:

The far northern end of White Sand Beach offers a quieter, more authentic vibe while still being on the island’s most popular beach. Several smaller resorts and bungalows here provide better value and atmosphere.

If you want something funky (but not necessarily quality) I’d try Rock and Sand at White Sand Beach.

Klong Prao Beach (a few kilometres south of White Sand Beach) is where we’d likely base ourselves next time. It’s less developed, more peaceful, and has a good selection of mid-range and boutique accommodations that balance comfort with character. The beach here is also less crowded and feels more natural.

We loved the vibe at Sol Beach, so maybe that would be a better option.

Dining on Koh Chang

One absolute highlight of our stay was dinner at SOME MAO on White Sand Beach. This is local Thai hospitality at its finest.

We went large with a spectacular whole sea bass (which my partner could barely look at before it was cooked!), Panang curry, and morning glory stir-fried with garlic. The sea bass was the centrepiece—beautifully prepared and worthy of applause, which it got from us and, coincidentally, from a sudden rainstorm that arrived mid-meal.

What we loved about SOME MAO’s:

• Authentic Thai flavours, not watered down for tourists
• Fresh seafood at reasonable prices
• Right on the beach with sunset views
• Cold Chang beer (appropriate given the island’s name)
• Laid-back atmosphere

The downside? We learned the hard way that tropical squalls wait for no one. Walking 300 metres back to our hotel without an umbrella in a Thai downpour is an experience I can’t necessarily recommend, but it did make for a memorable evening!

An alternative that was also good was Ta & Yay’s (Grandfather and Grandmother), which has some tasty treats too.

Things to Do: Four-Island Snorkelling Tour

We only had three days on Koh Chang, but we definitely wanted to explore the marine park, so we booked a half-day speedboat tour to the Mu Ko Chang National Marine Park and Ko Rang for 1,000 baht per person.

Ko Rang is the star attraction, and rightfully so. This small island boasts some of the clearest water we’ve seen in Thailand. The snorkelling here revealed vibrant coral gardens and an impressive variety of tropical fish. The visibility is exceptional, and even though we visited during less-than-perfect weather conditions (cloudy with threats of rain), the underwater world still dazzled.

Tour Options:

• Speedboat tours (1,000 baht): Half-day trips that get you to the islands quickly and back with time to spare
• Traditional wooden boats (cheaper but slower): Full-day tours visiting the same spots but at a more leisurely pace. Good value if you have the time

Our take: The speedboat worked well for our schedule. Some stops felt a bit rushed, and with 20-something people on board, it wasn’t the most intimate experience. But for seeing the marine park efficiently, it did the job.

Note on logistics: The boat pickup was a bit late, and there are no facilities on the small boat (no toilets), so plan accordingly. The journey from White Sand Beach takes you south around the island—beautiful views, but expect some chop if conditions aren’t perfect.

Beach Hopping on Koh Chang

Koh Chang’s beaches each have distinct personalities:

White Sand Beach (Had Sai Khao): The most developed beach, where we stayed. It’s a long stretch of golden sand with plenty of restaurants, bars, and accommodations. It gets busy, especially in high season, and can feel a bit commercialized. The southern end is quieter.

Klong Prao Beach: This is where we’d recommend for most travellers. It’s more peaceful, has better-value accommodations, and maintains more of that tropical island feel. The beach is wider in places and less crowded.

Further South: Kai Bae Beach and Lonely Beach cater to different crowds: the former to families and couples, the latter to the backpacker and party scene. We didn’t spend time there, but they’re worth exploring if you have more than a few days.

What We Learned About Koh Chang

After three nights, here’s our honest assessment:

What Koh Chang Does Well:

• Dramatic natural beauty: Those jungle-covered mountains plunging to the sea are genuinely stunning
• Excellent snorkelling: The marine park is world-class
• Good dining options: Authentic Thai food at reasonable prices (if you avoid the resort restaurants)
• Sunset views: Spectacular, especially with a Chang beer in hand
• Easy access from Bangkok: Perfect for a quick island escape

Where It Falls Short (For Us):

• Too developed in places: White Sand Beach can feel overly commercial
• Inconsistent quality: Especially in higher-end accommodations like our resort
• Challenging roads: The steep, winding roads make getting around more stressful than on flatter islands, especially if it has been raining.
• It’s not as relaxing: There’s an energy to Koh Chang that doesn’t suit everyone’s idea of a peaceful island retreat

The Personality Factor

Every paradise has its personality, and Koh Chang’s is bold, dramatic, and full of life. It’s not the serene, intimate escape we found on Koh Mak or the lush tranquillity of Koh Kood. Koh Chang is bigger, louder, and more diverse, which is exactly what some travellers want.

For us, it was a different kind of paradise. One that didn’t always match our rhythm. We prefer smaller, more intimate islands with fewer crowds and more authentic experiences. But that’s our preference, not a judgment on Koh Chang itself.

Reflections on Koh Chang

Is Koh Chang Thailand’s most underrated island paradise? That depends entirely on what you’re looking for.

If you want dramatic mountain scenery, excellent marine life, good food options, and don’t mind some development and tourist infrastructure, then yes, Koh Chang delivers and might be underrated compared to Phuket or Samui.

If you’re seeking a quiet, intimate island escape with boutique accommodations and unspoiled beaches, you’ll probably prefer Koh Chang’s smaller neighbours like Koh Mak or Koh Kood (stay tuned for our comparison of all three islands!).

Our recommendation: Skip the big resorts like KC Grande. Instead, book something smaller on Klong Prao Beach or the far north of White Sand Beach. Give yourself at least 3-4 days to explore different beaches and do the snorkelling tour. Don’t rent a moped unless you’re comfortable with steep, winding roads. And definitely have dinner at SOME MAO: but bring an umbrella, just in case.

Koh Chang surprised us, challenged us, and ultimately showed us that paradise comes in many forms. It might not have been our perfect match, but it’s undoubtedly worth experiencing for yourself.

Practical Information

Best Time to Visit: November to April (dry season). We visited during the transition period (February) and experienced some rain squalls.

Getting Around:

• Songthaews (shared pickup trucks) run along the main west coast road (50-100 baht depending on distance)
• Taxis and ride-shares available but expensive
• Motorbike rental (200-300 baht/day) – only if you’re confident with hills and traffic. We would NOT hire a moped here.

Money: ATMs available in the main beach areas. Many places accept cards, but cash is preferred at smaller establishments.

Internet: Most accommodations offer WiFi. You can buy a local SIM card at the ferry terminal or in 7-Eleven stores.