Sa Pa, Việt Nam – The Good, The Harsh… And The Frightening!

Trekking in Vietnam – the Good Guide!

Planning a trip to Asia has been one of the most rewarding exploration adventures we have ever done. Indeed, our Asian adventure has mostly been self-planned and self-guided, and it’s worked well for us. DIY Travel at its best. However, for our four-day trip to the far north of Vietnam, we decided to hand over the reins to professionals. Indochina Junk took care of everything—from transport (starting with a night train from Hanoi) to providing insights we’d have missed on our own. Trekking in Vietnam was on our list of things we had to do while we explored the country.

Use a local guide

 Indochina Junk, a reputable local tour operator, handled every detail. From arranging transport—including the overnight train from Hanoi—to organising our treks and sharing fascinating cultural insights, they made our trip seamless. Our guide, Mr. Ken, was a seasoned adventurer who had summited Mount Fansipan, the highest peak in Indochina, over 40 times. While we opted for lighter treks, his expertise enriched our experience in the stunning valleys surrounding Fansipan.

Getting to Sapa: A Journey in Itself

Traveling to Sapa was half the adventure. While driving takes about six hours, the overnight train offers a unique and memorable experience. We booked a private four-berth cabin on the CHAPA Express, the last train departing Hanoi, which arrives in Lào Cai at 6:20 AM. This timing allowed us to avoid arriving too early and feeling groggy before a full day of trekking.  

The train exceeded our expectations in comfort, despite the occasional intercom announcements. Equipped with noise-cancelling headphones, a box of red wine, and a sense of adventure, we managed to enjoy a surprisingly restful night.  

The Unique Charm of Sa Pa Town

Arriving in Sapa felt like stepping into a dreamlike blend of cultures. With cooler temperatures (we were there in May), it was a welcome escape from Hanoi’s heat. The town felt like a mix between Kathmandu and a quaint Austrian ski resort infused with the vibrant energy of a bustling Vietnamese market. Chalet-style buildings adorned with geraniums, children driving buffalo through the streets, and shops overflowing with hiking gear create a one-of-a-kind atmosphere.  

As the day unfolds, Black Hmong women and children fill the streets, selling colourful handicrafts made from locally dyed hemp. By evening, the town transforms into a lively marketplace, with pavements lined with handcrafted clothing, handbags, and crafts made from locally dyed hemp.  

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Exploring Cat Cat Village and the Surrounding Valleys

Our first trek led us to Cat Cat Village, a scenic spot nestled in the valley. The name translates to “waterfall,” and the village lives up to its name with cascading streams and bamboo water wheels. Along the way, we saw water ingeniously channelled for irrigation, milling, and even pounding rice into flour for spring rolls. 

The thin, cool air at 5,000 feet above sea level provided a refreshing contrast to Hanoi’s heat. Although the spring planting season meant the rice terraces weren’t their iconic green, the views were still breath-taking. Hiking back up the valley proved challenging but rewarding.  

 When Is the Best Time to Visit Sapa?

Timing your visit to Sapa depends on what you want to experience:  

– Spring to early summer: Misty mornings and cooler temperatures, but the rice terraces are not yet lush.  Tough to get those iconic Instagram photos when it’s misty and the rice terraces are mostly mud.

– Summer: Verdant terraces ready for harvest but expect heavy rains and cloudy skies.  

– Autumn: Clear skies and pleasant weather, though the rice has been harvested. So less to photograph.  

– Winter: Ideal for trekking with cool temperatures, but be prepared for harsh conditions.  If it’s walking, snow and views, it’s the perfect time of year!

Each season offers unique experiences, so plan based on your priorities.  

Immersing in Local Life

Trekking through the valleys revealed a stark contrast in lifestyles. Subsistence farming dominates the region, with families working tirelessly to sustain themselves. Children as young as six helped plough fields with buffalo, while others sold trinkets to tourists.  

Our guide encouraged us not to buy from children, explaining that education offers them the best path to a brighter future. Instead, we supported local schools by donating pens and ink, which we delivered during a visit to a nearby classroom. Seeing the students’ excitement and gratitude was an emotional highlight of our trip.  

Our guide, “Mr. Ken,” encouraged us to resist buying trinkets from children, explaining that this perpetuates a cycle of begging. Instead, he suggested supporting local schools. We purchased Chinese writing pens and ink, donating them to a classroom of 40 children. It was a small gesture, but seeing their joy made it a meaningful moment.  

How can you support the local Community?

The solution, however, might lie in empowering the locals as guides and entrepreneurs. One of our treks ended with a young Hmong woman expertly leading a group of tourists—an inspiring glimpse of what’s possible with education and training.  

Trekking Tours – Trekking in Vietnam

One of our Trekking in Vietnam treks took us to Bắc Hà’s Sunday market, about two hours away from Sa Pa town. The market bustled with activity—locals buying and selling animals, produce, and crafts. It offered a deeper look at Hmong culture but also revealed harsher realities, like animals trussed up for sale.  I’ve decided against showing images of dogs, ducks, cats and other animals being sold. I’m also not sure they were being sold as pets or food.
 
Throughout our visit, the resilience of the locals left us in awe. Many Hmong families practice subsistence farming, relying on buffalo and hand tools to till the land. Children as young as six or seven worked alongside their parents in the fields, balancing school with farm duties.  

 Conquering My Fear: The Fansipan Cable Car

Among my irrational fears, heights rank high. So, taking the world’s longest cable car ride up Mount Fansipan was not on my bucket list. But with some Dutch courage (thanks, Hanoi Beer), I faced the challenge.  

The gondola soared 500 meters above the valley floor, crossing ravines and climbing 1,400 meters to the summit. While I spent much of the ascent with my eyes closed, the views from the top made it worthwhile.  I could continue my Trekking in Vietnam journey!

The return trip was less terrifying, and I even managed to enjoy the ride. This experience reminded me that stepping out of your comfort zone often leads to unforgettable memories. 

For thrill-seekers, the Fansipan Cable Car offers an unforgettable experience. Spanning 6,282 meters and ascending 1,410 meters, it’s the longest cable car ride in the world. Despite my fear of heights, I faced the challenge. With my eyes mostly shut and my mind racing, I counted each second of the 20-minute journey.  

Reaching the summit was both terrifying and exhilarating. The views from 3,100 meters above sea level were unparalleled, and after some Hanoi Beer to steady my nerves, I even managed to enjoy the descent.  

Reflections on Sa Pa

Our journey through Sapa was a mix of awe and introspection. Trekking in Vietnam: The breath-taking landscapes, vibrant culture, and warm hospitality, Sa Pa’s resilient people left a lasting impression on us. Our journey was more than sightseeing – this was adventure exploration at its highest. However, witnessing the hardships faced by local communities made us pause. Supporting sustainable tourism—whether by hiring local guides or contributing to education—can make a meaningful difference.  

For us, Sapa was more than just a destination. It was an opportunity to connect with the land, its people, and the deeper questions about how travel can positively impact the world and how we, as travellers, can give back to the communities that we visit.

Whether it’s supporting education, choosing ethical travel practices, or simply appreciating the daily lives of locals, small actions can make a big difference. Sa Pa reminded us why we travel: to connect, to learn, and to leave the world a little better than we found it.  

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